Tips: Awas Jam 2nd Hand & New Old Stock Tiruan

"Bek, ramai kawan kita dah terkena. Itulah luahan saudara Hassan Detikduabelas kat aku dua minggu lepas. Aku perasan benda-benda nih... cuma tak nak komen pasal orang cari makan. Tapi kepada penternak-penternak yang mengeluarkan modal untuk membeli jam-jam yang rasanya nak disimpan pakai... maka aku buat la lapuran ni untuk tatapan bersama. Hanya jauhari mengenal manikam. Hati-hati. Aku pun pernah terkena." - thetick-thetick

China Made - China Fake
Hampir kesemua peminat-peminat dan pengumpul jam mengetahui akan kepakaran negara China untuk menciplak apa jua teknologi yang ada dari serata dunia - terutamanya jam tangan. Tidak ramai mengetahui bahawa movement jam ETA Swiss 2824-2 dan 2836 variant sudah diciplak hampir serupa dengan yang asli/genuine. Dan kebanyakan jam-jam tiruan automatik keluaran China menggunakan movement Miyota 8200/8202 yang diciplak. Selalunya jam-jam tiruan pelbagai gred hanya tertumpu kepada jenama Swiss. Namun sejak kebelakangan ini jam-jam tangan dari Jepun seperti Seiko, Citizen, dan Casio menjadi mangsa. Ini mungkin disebabkan production plant jenama-jenama ini beroperasi di negara China maka proses menciplak makin menjadi-jadi. Seiko terutamanya mengeluarkan casing untuk model jam-jam tangan quartz dan kineticnya di negara China. Casio pula membuat model-model yang tertentu sepenuhnya di China dan Thailand. Kerana itu fake atau replica model-model jenama ini adakalanya tidak jauh beza atau tidak dapat dibezakan dengan jam asli. Bahkan, menggunakan movement yang berkeupayaan hampir sama dan ada yang menggunakan movement yang sama.

Vintage dan New Old Stock Tiruan
Pengeluar-pengeluar dari Switzerland banyak mengeluarkan model re-edition mungkin kerana tema pada model tersebut ataupun mungkin kerana keunikan dan popularnya sesuatu model. Kerana itu dikeluarkan semula - re-edition. Jenama dan model Rado Diastar adalah salah satu keluaran re-edition yang kini mendapat tempat di kalangan peminat-peminat jam tangan moden adakalanya dianggap sebagai vintage di kalangan peminat jam-jam otai. Disebabkan ia kelihatan baru tanpa cacat-cela. Ramai yang tidak meragui keasliannya dan melabelkannya sebagai New Old Stock (NOS) untuk dijual atau dibeli. Tahukah anda bahawa terdapat banyak Rado Diastar tiruan terpampang di blog-blog, lelong.com, mudah.com.my dan website-website jam replica! Memang hampir serupa dengan yang asli. Ada yang menggunakan movement ETA 2836 (warna keemasan) fake dan China faked Miyota. Ada bisik-bisik yang saya terima mendapati banyak juga Mido Commander yang kononnya NOS adalah fake vintage atau juga dilabel sebagai re-edition.

Rado Diastar tiruan. Nampak vintage - New Old Stock? 

Di dalam beberapa blog dan iklan di mudah.com.my, terdapat model Citizen Eagle (vintage atau NOS!) yang agak pelik dari segi rekabentuk keluarannya. Rekabentuk jam diver Citizen tahun 80an mahun pun 70an tidak lah semoden yang yang terpampang di gambar di bawah. Cuba bandingkan dengan Tudor Hydronaut II diver keluaran tahun 2007. Siapa tiru siapa? Memang Tudor Hydronaut II ada yang diciplak. Bahkan casingnya turut digunakan oleh pengeluar-pengeluar jenama murahan lain menggunakan quartz movement. Dan, mungkin juga penjual rojak yang merojakkan dial jam Citizen lama dengan casing rekabentuk Tudor ini. Di dalamnya? Didapati ada yang menggunakan movement Miyota 8202 dan ada pula yang menggunakan China Made Miyota.

Siapa tiru siapa? Ada ke Citizen macam ni dalam katalog?

Nah, nengok kat belakang nih... enjin mana la pulak dia pakai?

Movement Miyota 8202 yang asli terdapat engraving pada rotor plate. China Made fake Miyota dicetak (lama kelamaan tanggal/padam) dengan perkataan Citizen atau Miyota, winding direction/arrow, dan 21 jewels. Jadi, apabila ingin membeli untuk menjual atau membeli untuk koleksi, hati-hati. Banyak NOS yang memang boleh disangsikan keasliannya.

Second Hand/Pre-owned Japanese Watch

Lihat gambar Casio Edifice di bawah ini. Apa firasat anda apabila seseorang menyatakan ia adalah jam terpakai dan ingin dijual? Pre-owned atau second hand. Itulah tajuk jualan utama di mudah.com.my mahupun di lelong.com.my.

Casio Edifice - Made in China. Genuine pun buat kat China!

Walaupun tiruan, ada hakikatnya dari luaran hampir 99% menyamai dengan yang asli. Mungkin kerana model asli dikeluarkan di China maka untuk diciplak memanglah mudah. Di dalam? Sama. Menggunakan movement chronograph quartz Miyota. Ada dua jenis movement yang digunakan mengikut konfigurasi chronograph. Ada yang menggunakan movement Miyota OS10 dan OS11. Ini kategori mana? AAA? Atau superfake!?? Bezanya cuma harga. Dan ada yang dijual dengan box set termasuk manual dan warranty card! Seiko tidak terkecuali. Lihat gambar di bawah. Seiko Velatura. Ada yang menawarkannya sebagai second hand. Alasan yang diberi kenapa dijual adalah untuk upgrade koleksi atau memerlukan wang. Harga yang ditawarkan berlegar di sekitar RM450 hingga RM650. Harga yang asli hampir kepada RM1,900. Boleh caya ke brader? Yang pastinya, gambar-gambar yang diposkan untuk iklan datang dari sumber yang sama. Dari website-website yang menjual jam replika dari China.

Seiko Velatura tiruan. Siapa ada? Movement hapa dia pakai nih...habaq mai kat cek!

Selain jam tangan quartz, jam automatik Seiko turut dicetak-rompak. Mak ai... Seiko diver SKX model yang menggunakan movement 7S26. Kononnya! Kebanyakannya menggunakan China Made Miyota dan pernah diiklankan di mudah.com.my sebagai second hand atau jam lama. Kalau di lelong.com.my, cuba anda search. Memang banyak dan dijual pada harga sekitar RM80 menggunakan tali getah Z22 tiruan. Pernah dibisikkan pada saya beberapa bulan lalu, jam yang serupa pernah tersesat di dada-dada blog penjual jam lama atau baru.

Fuyyooooo... siap ada print Made In Japan! Fake Seiko Diver.

Kepada peminat Seiko diver, apa komen anda?

Kesimpulan

Untuk pembeli-pembeli dan pengumpul jam tangan, tepuk dada tanya selera. Nak beli, beli lah. Pilih yang mana suka ikut budget masing-masing. Untuk penternak-penternak jam vintage, hati-hati. Untuk yang membeli untuk menjual, pastikan yang genuine. Jangan nanti pembeli komplen, mintak pulangkan duit jam. Inilah bahayanya apabila Seiko dan Casio beroperasi di China. Proses menciplak lebih mudah. Nah kau, Miyota memang membuat dan menjual movement sahaja. Sesiapa sahaja boleh membeli untuk mengeluarkan jam jenama sendiri menggunakan pelbagai jenis movement mereka. "Junkers Made in Germany" dan "Invicta Japan Movt" masih bergantung kepada movement Miyota. Turut menggunakannya adalah jenama-jenama designer (designers' brand) seperti Nautica, Adidas, Tommy Hilfiger, Elle, Guess, dsbg. Titus, jenama swiss turut menggunakan movement Miyota. Ini terdapat pada model-model yang dikeluarkan di Hong Kong. Banyak dijual di rangkaian kedai City Chain di Malaysia, Singapura, dan Hong Kong.

"Bek. Ko nengok gambar enjin Rolex transition model nih. Ori ke tak? Tanya saudara Hassan Detikduabelas selepas hantar MMS gambar movement sebuah jam Rolex otai. Sorry, gambar aku dah delete takble nak post kat sini. Kompom, jam ciplak... pasal apa bek? Tanya Hassan. Aku jawab selamba jeh...jam Swiss tahun 20an sampai 30an mana ada engraved Swiss dekat movement plate. Biasanya dia engrave Suisse. Dan lagipun logo Rolex dengan movement number takde... he he. Nasib baik la sahabat kepada saudara Hassan tu tak beli. Kalu beli sesenang jeh terbang seribu lebih.... hati-hati bila beli jam vintage atau jam-jam lama. Pasal harga vintage mahal. Rojak mamak memang sedap. Kena jam rojak haru babe!" - thetick-thetick 

[Semak dan susun semula 11 May 2020]

Tips: Mengapa Jam Tangan Anda...

"Bek. Aku tak tau laa... customer aku nih baru jeh nak main jam-jam vintage. Risiko. Kekadang jam tu elok kat tangan kita, sampai kat customer rosak pulak bek! Apasal itu? Apasal ini? Itulah luahan saudara Hassan Detikduabelas kat aku baru-baru nih. Berdasarkan pengalaman aku, setiap kali jam tangan kita memberi masalah, pasti ada simtom-simtom yang boleh kita agak apa ke bendenya yang rosak dalam jam tu. Haaa... baca la tips-tips kat bawah nih. Simple diagnostic". - thetick-thetick

Untuk mengenalpasti masalah pada jam tangan anda adakalanya memerlukan pengalaman dan pemikiran logik. Samada jam tangan mekanikal ataupun quartz, asas operasi jam-jam tangan ini perlu diketahui terlebih dahulu. Ini akan memudahkan kita mengenalpasti masalah operasi sesebuah jam tangan. Tersenarai seperti berikut, pertanyaan (Q-Question) dan keberangkalian (P-Probability) yang mungkin menyebabkan masalah pada sesebuah jam tangan.

Q1: Jam Tangan Mekanikal Bergerak Terlalu Cepat (Walaupun sudah diperlahankan)
P1-1: Hairspring pada Balance Wheel sudah rosak/bengkang-bengkok.
P1-2: Hairspring pada Balance Wheel yang sudah putus disambung semula pada hairspring stud. Kependekkan menyebabkan balance wheel bergerak terlalu laju tanpa boleh diregulasikan (tuning) semula.

Q2. Jarum Jam Tangan Mekanikal Bergerak Agak Lambat (Walaupun sudah diregulasikan)
P2-1: Gear pada Cannon Pinion atau Timekeeping Gear tidak bersentuhan sepenuhnya.
P2-3: Pivot pada Timekeeping Gear sudah kekeringan minyak pelincir maka pergerakan akan tersangkut-sangkut melibatkan beberapa gear lain yang bergerak secara bersama.

Q3. Kalendar Haribulan Tidak Bertukar Secara Automatik
P3-1: Strike Pin/Anchor pada Calendar Striking Mechanism terkeluar dari kedudukan sepatutnya untuk menarik calendar plate. 
P3-2: Gear pada Calendar Plate tidak bersentuhan sepenuhnya dengan Striking Mechanism.

Q4. Crown Stem Tercabut/Mudah Tercabut
P4: Stem Lock pada Keyless Works sudah longgar, samada Screw-Type atau Spring-Type maka ia tidak memegang crown sepenuhnya.

Q5. Jarum Jam Tidak Selari Dengan Hour & Minute Indices (Jarum sudah dipasang selari pada asalanya)
P5-1: Cannon Pinion Gear sudah tidak bersentuhan sepenuhnya dengan Hour dan Minute wheel maka apabila jam beroperasi ia menghasilkan putaran-putaran yang tidak bergerak seirama. 
P5-2: Salah satu gigi pada gear Cannon Pinion sudah patah/haus.
P5-3: Cannon Pinion atau Centre Wheel sudah longgar. 

Q6. Jarum Chronograph Recorder Tidak Reset Pada Kedudukan Sepatutnya
P6-1: Clutch Lever Wire sudah bengkok/patah - untuk movement jenis Vertical Clutch Column Wheel
P6-2: Reset Wheel sudah haus/gigi pada Wheel sudah patah - untuk movement jenis guna Setting Wheels

Movement jenis chronograph. Mekanisma recorder dan reset amat sensitif. Lever reset dan recorder wire juga mudah patah.

Q7. Crown Stem Tidak Berfungsi Untuk Menukar Kalender
P7-1: Crown Stem tidak dipasang atau dikunci pada kedudukan sepatutnya.
P7-2: Setting Gear untuk menukar kalendar terbalik/tidak bersentuhan dengan stem lever.
P7-3: Terdapat gear atau gear-gear pada Quickset atau Rapid Date Change Mechanism pada Calendar Module yang tidak bersentuhan untuk dioperasikan.

Q7. Jarum Jam Hanya Bergerak Beberapa Minit Walaupun Sudah Dikunci Sepenuhnya
P7-1: Mainspring tersekat dari memacu Train Wheels.
P7-2: Train Wheels mengalami friction (geseran), perlu oiling.
P7-3: Salah satu gigi pada Mainspring Barrel patah atau haus (oleh itu ia tersekat).
P7-4: Ratchet Wheel Click bermasalah. Samada screw yang memegang kedudukan click adalah screw yang salah atau ia diikat terlalu ketat maka mainspring tidak boleh bergerak (tersekat) untuk memacu pergerakan jam. 

Q8. Jarum Jam Hanya Bergerak Beberapa Minit Walaupun Sudah Digoyang Beberapa Kali (Japanese Automatic, Non-Winding)
P8-1: Winding Gear/Mechanism tidak bersentuhan dengan Ratchet Wheel yang mengunci mainspring.
P8-2: Mainspring di dalam barrel mengalami geseran maka ia tersekat untuk memacu pergerakan Train Wheels.
P8-3: Salah satu gigi pada Mainspring Barrel patah atau haus maka ia tersekat untuk memacu pergerakan Train Wheels.

Q9. Kalendar Hari (day) dan Tarikh (date) Tidak Selaras
P9-1: Gear-gear pada Calendar Plate (Day dan Date Plate) sudah terlalu haus.
P9-2: 'C' Clip yang memegang kedudukan Day Calendar Plate longgar atau tiada maka pergerakannya tidak tersusun dan tidak berada di kedudukan sepatutnya.
P9-3: Date Calendar Holding Yolk atau Pin tidak memegang gigi-gigi pada calendar plate pada kedudukan sepatutnya menyebabkan pergerakan plate menjadi longgar.
Nota: Jam fungsi kalender Day-Date menggunakan dua set calendar plate atau calendar wheel. Satu untuk Day dan satu untuk date.   

Q10. Jarum Saat Pada Jam Tangan Quartz Bergerak Tersekat-Sekat Atau Berhenti Selang Beberapa Saat
P10: Jarum saat tidak bergerak mengikut detik yang sepatutnya. Ia bergerak selang 2 atau 3 saat, atau mungkin pada selang waktu lebih lama seolah tersekat-sekat. Itu tandanya kuasa bateri sudah mencapai tahap paling rendah untuk jam beroperasi. Bateri perlu ditukar.
Nota: Amat disarankan, semua jam quartz yang menggunakan SWISS MOVT hendaklah ditukar dengan bateri jenama RENATA buatan Swiss. Jika jam quartz buatan Jepun/JAPAN MOVT, pilihan ditangan anda - ada banyak jenama bateri. Tukar bateri yang mempunyai kuasa (dalam kiraan Voltage) yang sesuai dengan spesifikasi movement jam. Adalah dinasihatkan supaya segera menukar batteri jam sekiranya perlu. Ini bagi mengelakkan "cell discharge" atau bahan kimia dalam bateri jam mengalir keluar memasuki komponen-komponen movement jam yang lain. Jika ini terjadi, berkemungkinan besar movement akan rosak.

"Ramai sifu-sifu aku dah tanya. Kalau kalendar day dengan date tak selaras boleh repair tak? Semua jawab... tukar calendar module baru. Tau pasal hapa? Gear-gear dia dah haus. Kebanyakkan calendar plate gear diperbuat dari tembaga yang mudah haus. Cuba selak bawah calendar plate... majoriti guna gear nipis diperbuat dari tembaga - ringan so plate tu mudah dipusing. Kalau steel sure problem. Logik? Jam lama/vintage jeh ada masalah camnih.... wear and tear. So kepada penternak-penternak jam otai, bahari, classic, atau vintage. Ini adalah lumrah. Ada penyelesaian dia sebenarnya, tampal calendar decals atas calendar plate tuu...tampal kasi selari.He he... mana la nak carik menatang tuuu" - thetick-thetick 

[Semak dan susun semula 05 Mei 2020]

Tips: Membersihkan Jam Diver - Seiko The Reds 6309-7290

"Hassan Detikduabelas panggil Seiko Red Devil pasal dia peminat Manchester United kutt. Sorry heh..aku Liverpool punya big fan. So aku panggil The Reds sempena nama panggilan team bola kesayangan aku nih. Aku nih kalu beli jam sure aku bikin kasi bersih. Baru puas hati simpan bikin koleksi."- thetick-thetick

Seiko Diver 6309-7290 The Reds
Aku beli jam ni dari Hassan Detikduabelas. Sebelum ni aku dah beli dari dia 7002-7001 Blue Chelsea (jerung biru) dengan 6309-7290 transition model black dial. Sebab tak pernah ada jam warna merah, aku tambah koleksi 6309-7290 slim/transition model dengan dial dan minute marker warna merah aftermarket. Production sekitar tahun 1986 nih memang ‘Made in Japan’ dan untuk Middle-East market, dia tulis arab daaa... Memandangkan ramai tertanya-tanya macam mana nak buat basic watch cleaning, di bawah, aku kongsikan sedikit tips atau cara-cara macam mana nak bikin. Paling lama 1 jam jeh. Fast cleaning dengan bezel adjustment pasal scuba bezel punya marker tak align dengan 12 hour marker. Maaf, aku cuba guna penulisan bahasa pasar lagi sempoi jadi sesiapa yang baca rasa relax sikit. Sorry la, gambar tak berapa canggih dan sequence tak boleh nak detail pasal dah terlajak hendak ambil gambar.

Keperluan Peralatan
1. Watch (case) holder – pemegang case jam
2. Case opener – pembuka case jam jenis screw-down
3. Spring bar remover – penanggal spring bar (guna screw driver leper pun boleh)
4. Tweezers
5. Kertas penggulung tembakau rokok
6. Peg wood (guna cutter untuk memotong, jadikan macam mata pensel)
7. Pencungkil gigi (tooth pick)
8. Kain pembersih/penggilap
9. Cleaning compound – Brasso, Autosol, MAAS, dll. kalau ada
10. Glue/bonding compound
11. Petroleum jelly – Vaseline Cream atau lain-lain jenama
12. Blow-duster – untuk membuang habuk jenis pump

Alatan untuk membersih

MAAS Cleaning Compound - lebih baik dari Polywatch Cream. Setakat ini, inilah compound terbaik untuk menggilap bahan logam dan acrylic crystal atau glass. Mudah hilangkan calar pada acrylic crystal. Tanya Hassan Detikduabelas. Aku pernah demo kat dia.

Bahagian A – Dismantle
Step A1 – Tanggalkan tali (strap/bracelet) dengan menggunakan spring bar remover/skrew driver leper.
Step A2 – Buka watch case (case lid) dengan menggunakan case opener.
Step A3 – Keluarkan crown (rujuh gambar di bawah). Tekan crown lock pin pada tekanan sederhana sambil menarik keluar crown (tanggalkan) dari movement.
Step A4 – Tanggalkan spacer ring menggunakan tweezer.
Step A5 – Tanggalkan gasket pada case dan crown – ganti jika gasket perlu ditukar.
Step A6 – Tanggalkan scuba bezel. Guna skrew driver leper, umpil bezel pada kedudukan pukul 5 – bezel akan tanggal.

Tekan crown stem lock sambil tarik crown keluar

Habis terbarai The Reds aku...

Bahagian B – Membersihkan Case dan Case Lid
Step B1 – Guna peg wood (sudah diasah seperti mata pensel), keluarkan kotoran pada bahagian casing – luar dan dalam. Guna pencungkil gigi untuk mengeluarkan kotoran pada tepian crown pipe. Bersihkan juga case lid (penutup case). Bersih sehingga anda berpuas hati.

Tepi "Crown Pipe" berkeladak. Guna pencungkil gigi untuk membuang kotoran.

Gunakan "Peg Wood" untuk membersih watch case. Peg wood tidak mencalarkan bahagian-bahagian jam yang diperbuat dari besi.

Step B2 – Sapukan cleaning/polishing compound pada bahagian case dan case lid (penutup). Gunakan kain untuk menggilap/buang kotoran. Gilap sehingga anda puas hati.
Step B3 – Gunakan blow-duster untuk membuang sebarang habuk di bahagian dalam/bawah crystal.
Step B4 – Gunakan kertas pembalut tembakau untuk membersihkan dan mengeringkan bahagian bawah crystal. Blow-duster akan meninggalkan wap pada bahagian bawah crystal. Kertas pembalut tembakau boleh menyerap dan mengeringkan wap.

Gunakan kertas penggulung tembakau untuk membersihkan bahagian bawah crystal

Case dan Case Lid yang sudah dibersihkan [bahagian atas]

Case dan Case Lid yang sudah dibersihkan [bahagian bawah]

Bahagian C – Membersihkan Scuba Bezel
Step C1 – Tanggalkan/keluarkan bezel rubber insert ring. Rubber ring terdapat di bahagian dalam bezel.
Step C2 – Tanggalkan bezel insert (scuba marker/rule) dengan menekan dari bahagian bawah. Hati-hati, jangan sampai bengkok atau tidak sama rata.

Bezel unit yang sudah ditanggalkan

Step C3 – Gunakan cleaning/polishing compound untuk membersihkan bezel ring terutamanya kesan glue sebelum ini.
Step C4 – Sapukan sedikit petroleum jelly pada rubber insert ring untuk membuang kotoran. Rubber insert ring yang bersih akan nampak seperti baru. Masukkan ke dalam bezel ring selepas dibersihkan.

Petroleum Jelly. Guna untuk membersihkan bahagian-bahagian diperbuat dari getah. Juga boleh disapu pada case gasket.

Bezel unit yang sudah dibersihkan

Bahagian D – Assembling dan Strapping
Step D1 – Masukkan movement ke dalam case. Tekan crown lock pin sambil memasukkan crown melalui crown pipe. Pastikan crown berfungsi sepenuhnya untuk menukar calendar dan menggerakkan jarum.
Step D2 – Pasangkan spacer ring pada kedudukan sepatutnya.
Step D3 – Ambil case gasket baru. Sapukan sedikit petroleum jelly. Pasangkan pada casing.

Setelah dipasang movement, crown, spacer ring dan gasket

Step D4 – Tutup case. Ketatkan menggunakan case opener.
Step D5 – Pasang bezel ring (dengan menekan dari atas). Pastikan gigi pada bezel ring kena (tepat) pada bezel track-ball.

Pasang bezel ring. Pastikan gigi bezel ring kena pada track-ball.

Step D6 – Sapukan glue/bonding compound ditepian bahagian dalam bezel ring.

Bezel ring yang sudah dipasang. Glue di tepian bahagian dalam bezel ring sebelum memasang bezel insert.

Step D7 – Pasang bezel insert (scuba marker). Pastikan scuba triangle marker selari atau tepat dengan 12 hour marker.

Bezel insert (scuba marker) dipasang selari dengan 12 hour marker (dalam bulatan)

Step D8 – Pasangkan strap/bracelet pada case. Takkan tak tau beb...

Pasang tali diver getah. Nampak macho beb!

Pasang kondom!!! Untuk perlindungan bezel. Nampak garang beb! Bezel cover ni hadiah persahabatan dari Hassan Detikduabelas.

"Aku harap siapa-siapa yang baca boleh faham artikel nih. Simple cleaning dan bezel marker allignment. Ada sorang penternak Seiko Panda dari Puchong iaitu saudara Hassan Detikduabelas mintak aku buat pemindahan organ (organ transplant) untuk sekor panda dia yang terkehel akibat terpasang kaki palsu buatan Citizen. Nantikan artikel seterusnya macam mana aku buat organ transplant Panda Puchong nih. Panda China dah nak pupus. Seiko Panda punnn… nantikan." - thetick-thetick

[Semak dan susun semula 28 Mei 2020]

Tips: Kertas Penggulung Tembakau

"Tak isap lokok pun ini keltas misti mau guna maa... Kata sifu Lee kepada aku lama dulu. Percaya atau tidak. Kertas pembalut rokok atau penggulung tembakau adalah sesuatu yang biasa kita jumpa atas meja sifu-sifu tukang repair jam. Apa kelebihannya kepada tukang baiki jam?Ada gunanya beb!" - thetick-thetick

Pembersih Murah Lagi Berkesan

Haaa... tentu ada antara mereka yang merokok jarang menggunakan kertas penggulung tembakau. Pasal bila bukak kotak rokok, ngap satu kat mulut, terus bakar. Lainlah kalau anda hisap rokok gulung! Merokok membahayakan kesihatan - apa laaa aku nih. Namun, kertas penggulung tembakau adalah salah satu alatan bagus lagi berkesan untuk membersih dan mengeringkan bahagian-bahagian jam tangan anda. Kerana kelebihannya, maka ia telah digunakan oleh pembaiki-pembaiki jam - turun-temurun, zaman berzaman. Apa kegunaannya?

Tanya kat memana kedai runcit apek dan mamak. Sure ada kertas pembalut nih.

Penyerap Minyak
Setelah merendam bahagian-bahagian tertentu di dalam minyak pembersih jet one yang biasa digunakan untuk "overhaul" movement anda, letakkan di atas sekeping kertas pembalut tembakau. Minyak akan diserap dan bahagian yang diletakkan akan mudah kering.

Pembersih Bahagian Bawah Crystal
Kita sering dapati ada kesan cap jari pada bahagian bawah crystal. Mungkin juga wap-wap yang memudarkan crystal pada jam tangan. Ini disebabkan kerja pembaikan atau servis yang tidak kemas. Untuk menghilangkan kesan wap atau cap jari tanpa mencalarkan crystal kaca mahupun acrylic, gunakan kertas penggulung tembakau. Kesannya pasti kelihatan. Jika guna kain bergentian halus (soft micro-fabre), ada kalanya kelembapan pada kain masih meninggalkan kesan wap. Bahkan, adakalanya meninggalkan bulu-bulu fabrik halus yang tertanggal di bahagian bawah cermin. Ini akan mencacatkan pandangan dial jam tangan anda. Kertas penggulung tembakau lebih berkesan - lebih bersih.

Membersihkan "Steel Mold" dan Menggilap Jarum Jam Tangan
Jangan sekali-kali menggunakan bahan pengilat seperti "Brasso", "Autosol", atau bahan-bahan abrasive untuk mengilatkan jarum jam tangan anda. Ini akan menyebabkan nickle-plating pada jarum luntur. Jarum jam yang berkilat, samada Stainless Steel Nickle-plated mahupun Gold-plated adakalanya kelihatan pudar. Ini adalah disebabkan oleh steel mold atau kulat besi yang terbentuk disebabkan kelembapan didalam jam tangan anda. Untuk membuang steel mold dan menggilap jarum-jarum jam tangan anda, guna kertas pembalut tembakau. Letak kertas di atas sehelai kain pembersih yang dilipat. Dua atau tiga lipatan cukup untuk dijadikan padding dan letakkan di atas permukaan meja yang rata. Kemudian letak kertas pembalut tembakau di atas kain pembersih yang dilipat. Ambil jarum dan letakkan di atas kertas pembalut tembakau dalam keadaan terbalik. Gerakkan menggunakan jari telunjuk anda seperti anda menggosok (stroking) dengan tekanan yang agak sederhana. Setelah beberapa stroke, jarum akan menjadi bersih dan berkilau tanpa sebarang kesan calar. Pastikan anda menggunakan finger glove ketika menyentuh jarum-jarum jam.

Pelapik Movement
Apabila mengeluarkan movement jam tangan daripada casing, lapik kertas pembalut tembakau pada movement supaya bahagian rotor atau balance wheel tidak bersentuhan dengan tangan anda. Begitu juga apabila memasukkannya kembali. Jari tangan kita sentiasa lembab dan apabila terkena kepada bahan-bahan logam, lama kelamaan akan mewujudkan steel mold. Juga, jangan lupa menggunakannya untuk mengelap bahagian dalam penutup jam supaya benar-benar kering bagi mengelakkan perkara yang sama. Selain menggunakan finger glove, kertas pembalut tembakau adalah satu alternatif yang murah.

Selamat mencuba

“Kalau mau repair jam ha, jangan isap rokok. Nanti itu abuk masuk dalam lu punya jam. Nanti meja kotor penuh abuk. Isap jauh-jauh. Tegur sifu Ah Loi. Dia sekarang dah bersara dari membaiki jam walaupun usia tak berapa tua. Dia sekarang meniaga mee kat Cheras. Seorang sifu yang teliti lagi berpengalaman. Hasil kerja dia superbbbb. Namun apa kan daya, dah dia nak bersara. Apa boleh buat. Sifu Lee ada, takpa.” - thetick-thetick

[Semak dan susun semula 19 Februari 2020]

Exploring Horology Part VIb

"Books are lasting pictures of knowledge freezes between spaces and time. Many people read but not many people learned what they read. Anonymously, I can’t remember who quoted this but I pick-up from one of many books I have read. Read and learn is utmost important. My very minute knowledge about horology desires handy lesson, as interest and passion grows more reading is necessary." – thetick-thetick

The World Wide Web
The world of horology is niche but unique and interesting to explore. Like most of focused subjects, the world of horology developed and published vastly by many industrial experts, the manufacturers, independent authors, sales experts, and watches enthusiasts in the borderless world of Internet. You may ponder topics from many forum gestures and opinions too (don't forget the many many blogs dude!). The advent of World Wide Web (www) has face lifted the traditional way of knowledge sharing. Every second, every day, there are many horology articles published. Humongous! You may numb you fingers if you want to browse and click interesting subjects over the Internet. Some nuts might browse for hours. Me among the many nuts! Honestly, since the pass eight to nine years, ever since I own a laptop and having personal Internet connection this addiction has never subside.

I love to read watches reviews, comments from viewers, forums, e-catalogue, and any articles about watches until I become myopic! Honestly, sometimes I do not have any specific subject to search for and end-up googling. Google Image is my favourite tool! Hah-ha, I guess we do it all the time. Download some nice, sexy, and curvy watch images! This habit has been my daily routine (almost!) and at one time I have stored almost 210 gigabytes of various horological references in my external storage drive. Hence, I have saved a long list of http links populating my browser bookmark. But, the external drive crashed with no chance of revival and retrieval few month after i started blogging. A huge lost of blogging reference which I intend to use. Back-up the back-up, lesson learned.

My new external storage drive. Need to mirror meh?

Lucky me. By browser bookmark is safely stored somewhere. Click image to enlarge. Find something interesting?

The Books and Magazines
I bought many monthly, quarterly, bi-annual, and annual wrist watches magazines. I found some of those magazines are informative – rich of horological knowledge but some are merely advertorial. The cheapest yet rich with colourful photos of new and trendy big boys’ watches is the World of Watches magazine. I miss the first issue but I have the second until the latest. The magazine cost only RM10 per issue. It’s a bi-annual publication. For me, this is an advertising medium. Not a pure horological reference. RM10 for thick colourful pages! The publisher don’t sell magazine. They sell advertising space. Anyway, this magazine is a good compilation of sales catalogue. I also bought plenty of the monthly International Watch magazines, some new and some back issue. I bought many back issues from bookstores at Amcorp Mall and Sungei Wang Plaza. The magazine cost only RM18 per new issue five to six years ago but now catches RM28-RM34 per issue. The back issue only cost me RM10, some RM8 per piece. But seriously, this is a must have reference if you love technical expect of the modern watches. I love this magazine.

Quarterly published Watch Time is amazing. I do not buy new issue, back issues can do. It is very-very interesting horological publication. There are plenty of reviews, pictorial-demonstration, focussed articles, critics, industrial trend and analysis, and many presentation of horological icons. I bet you will love this magazine. If I am not mistaken the price is now uphill to RM48 per issue. The Watch Critics, a bi-lingual publication from Hong Kong is another good reference. I love vintage watches. In this magazine you can check hammer price for Swiss vintage auctions. What is rare and most sought after? There is a specific section for this in the magazine. Read the English if you don't know how to read Chinese characters.

Annual publication! I only buy the Malaysian annual from elite group publications like Tick-Talk and The Peak Selection/The Peak. I can’t afford the international publication because most annual magazines centre-staged the annual watches line-up and trend. Interviews with familar industrial icons and the Swiss Houte Horlogerie always be the anchor articles. Usual suspect! Expensive, but nothing less like an annual watch catalogue. Other than these, I also bought the Revolution and Timewerke magazines for my reference. Not to forget, a stack of Chronos and Luxe back issue. All these reference are to keep me updated with the latest trend and horological advances.

On the bookshelf – need a stronger cabinet because the magazines are thick and heavy.

"I also keep watches catalogue books, pamphalets, and manuals. Reading catalogues? Hmmhh… Why not productive reading? Hey, learn from sifu la brader. Takpun sembang-sembang la dengan collectors. A good advice came from the dark side. Be inquisitive, I will be! May the force be with me. Muahaha..." – thetick-thetick

Exploring Horology Part VIa

"Knowledge is not always free. Experience is priceless. Be inquisitive, you will be a knowledgeable person. That is what I learn from one of my lecturer when I was in the college." – thetick-thetick

Watch Tools and Work Bench
I always dream of my own watch 'atelier' where I could freely service, restore, modified, and to extremely design, fabricate, and assemble my own watch. Yeah… it sounds like a crazy dream. But, starting a small work bench would at least put my hobby in a better spot without much disturbance. Like others, I started cleaning my vintage on my dining table. Some, on the kitchen bar! That’s where it started. Lay a big size white cloth on the table. Put all the tools. Dismantling and assembling watches.

It took me many months and years to equip my hobby. I bought a few China Made tools from Lelong.com and from a wholesaler shop in Lorong Haji Taib in Chow Kit. Sorry, I buy watches tools from that area – not to shop for chicken or raw meat huh! Some tools are not available there. I mean the good one. So I frequented Tai Sang at Wisma Selangor in Jalan Sultan to get some additional tools. It’s a must. You should have the watchmaker’s loupe, tweezers, case opener, hand-lifter, spring bar remover, watch holder, watchmaker screw driver, etc. Long list! Some, I got it free from my sifus – old and used Swiss Made like movement holder, peg wood, and many useful tools. Free give, so give them free lunch. KFC can do maa!

When I moved to my current house in Kota Damansara, I use my daughter’s study table as my work bench. Our old house was a small apartment, so cramp. Now, in the living room upstairs I place the table in one corner. My family call it my heaven’s desk. Fortunately, they understand me well. Hah ha, I sometime spend whole day working at my bench. Break for food, toilet, prayer and some housekeeping routine! Malay said sometime "punggung naik kematu". My hobby make my bump numbed! But seriously, my wife is happy to see me at home! Not going out for long hectic golfing or "merayau" with don’t know-who good or bad influences friends. Biasa lah! I remember what my wife once said. "You can have many watches, but have only one wife". I just smile. What say you dude? Take care of many wives can be troublesome. Many watches!!!??? The workbench is where I learn through practical experience, to destroy and to repair watches. Hah ha. Costly lesson huh? My lecturer is damned right. Knowledge is not always free.

My small "atelier" at home

Re-strapping the oldies to look young and masculine. Bunch of spares in my treasure box!

Spare parts! Spare parts! Are you a Watch Junkies?

Spanner and wrench... which car engine to repair brader?

Work @bench: Hassan Detikduabelas's antique Titoni going for cleaning services. Jam dia ni pernah harung ayaq bah... karat sana sini.

Work @bench: Cleaning Titoni's case with "peg wood". Banyak karat tuuu...

Work @bench: Cleaning "steel mold" on the watch hands using peg wood

Work @bench: Cleaned and shiny hands. Wiped with cigarette paper to avoid finger print and make them dry.

Work @bench: cleaned, waiting for final assembly. Dial Titoni tu banyak jerawat! Jerawat seri... he he he

"When I was in school, I like to read and collect comics and magazines. When I started collecting watches, I collect reading materials. Wait for Part VIb… my bedtime and toilet reading materials!" – thetick-thetick

Exploring Horology Part Vb

“Some watch collectors are true historians, true historian of their beloved brand. They learn about the brand history, the man behind the manufacture, technical aspect of the movement, catching up with series and models, signature watches, etc. These people are true brand ambassadors. They are genuinely loyal to the brand with in depth knowledge of the products. Their interest says it all.” – thetick-thetick

Seiko: the Uncle, Pakcik, and Atuk’s Watch
I remember my school days in the 70s and early 80s. Whenever I sit in a coffee shop, I will see many Seikos strapped with stainless steel bracelet dangling on the pakciks and atuks wrist. Seiko is dubbed as affordable and preferred watch by the elderly in the 70s and 80s. Yuppies wear them too! The 70s are bulky, colorful, sporty and sturdy looking. The Rolex 'jubilee' and 'oyster' styled bracelet are common features in the Seiko models. Many wear the traditional 70s automatics and a few catching up with the trendy leather strap quartz of the 80s. Some of them still wear it until today. The closest examples are my uncles. They only have one watch. A Seiko automatic watch cost RM200 is considered expensive to common people in the 70s. But, with good care the Seiko still runs with good timekeeping until today. It is a true nature of mechanical watch – lasting and serviceable. My uncle who is now a retired soldier recalled buying his beloved Seiko when he first joins the army in mid 70s. The watch is too sentimental to him. Old watch, old people, great old story.

Exploring Seiko, the Great Stories behind the Brand
“What, old Seiko for 6k? You must be crazy!” my respond to an otai (seasoned) collector who bought a vintage Caliber 6148 Hi-Beat 36000 Grand Seiko. True, how many people have you seen wearing vintage Grand Seiko these days? And, how many owns King Seiko. What is so great about these signature watches? Why the vintage expensively priced? Some of these Seikos are more expensive than the Swiss equivalent. For the new production, these top models are only available in Japan and a few selected watch power houses around the world.

Grand Seiko Chronometer, Swiss rival of the 60s. Have you seen it strapped on anyone's wrist these days?

To gain knowledge about this commoners’ brand (my first impression on Seiko, brand for ordinary people), I started to befriend the 'otai' Seiko collectors. Not long ago, since 2005! Surprisingly, the non-Japanese values this masterpiece more than the Japanese themselves. Believe it or not, browse the Internet and you will find a lot of previews about this Japanese masterpiece especially the Grand Seiko, King Seiko, and few top models. Not only the top line, others like the Seiko Divers, the mechanical alarm wrist watch, and chronographs are well respected and well valued. Some becoming a cult by its uniqueness like the famous mechanical-alarm – the Seiko Bell-Matic. http://www.bellmatics.com/ The vintage Divers have been tirelessly discussed in many watch forums. The great Grand Seiko has been an evergreen topic in several recognized websites. The Seiko famous signatures have always been compared to many much alike featured Swiss watches. In my Internet browser’s favorite, I have developed a long list of bookmarks - all about Seiko. Check it out! You can find Seiko featured in many watch enthusiasts’ blogs and websites these days.

Seiko Bell-Matic - the famous executive watch of the 70s.

The Exciting World of Seiko
What makes Seiko an interesting brand? Vintage or new, this world recognized brand has many untold success stories. To summarize, I wish to highlight my observation as the following:

Reliable and Varieties of Watches Movement
Independent from other watches movement producers, Seiko makes all the watches parts in-house. Although the company has many overseas manufacturing and assembly plants, the creation and mass production of its product lines retains the Seiko philosophy for perfection. The mechanical movements are more robust and reliable compared to Swiss manufactured movements at its class like the ETA, A. Schild, Ronda, and other commonly used ebouche. The Swiss common brands of the 60s and 70s are somewhat boring. Almost 50% powered by ETA and A. Schild movement. On the contrary, Seiko produces more than a dozen of movements to power its radical line of signature watches right from elegant dress watch, sporty looking chronometer, until the professional instrument grade.

World's First, Standard, and Trend Setting
At time when Swiss watches used 'minute hand winding stem - forward and back' to change the date calendar, Seiko already used the 'quick-set calendar setting' in its watches. Hence, Seiko also introduced the 'crown-push date-day setting mechanism' in late 70s. Although Seiko do not introduced the use of sapphire crystal, but they are the first to introduce treated hardened mineral glass (named as ‘hardlex’) for their sports watches in the late 60s. Seiko also invented the 'vertical-clutch column-wheel' mechanism to reset the chronograph watch. This mechanism has since becoming a world standard followed by all Swiss mechanical chronograph movement manufacturers. They are also the first to use '516L hardened steel' watch case in the top line production for the Grand Seiko and King Seiko series. Seiko also obtained 'C.O.S.C. certification' for a few of its elite Grand Seiko and King Seiko models. Seiko also produced a few movements to rival the Zenith El-Primero (el-primero means the only one!) that run at 36,000bph.

We shouldn't forget the Seiko Astron; the world’s first commercially produced quartz watch in 1968. Quartz is well-known of its accuracy. What else? Forty years after that, in 2008 Seiko launched world’s most accurate automatic chronograph movement – using the "Caliber 5R86, 50 jewels, Spring Drive tri-synchro regulator, +/- just one second timekeeping accuracy per day, and using the most advanced instant chronograph stopper mechanism". Not only that, Seiko also produced world’s "most accurate quartz movement with -10 seconds accuracy per year". The movement is only used in the new line of Grand Seiko Quartz models. The new breed of Seiko quartz movement is no match by the Swiss ETA and Ronda.

Affordable to All Walks of Life
Without compromising quality, Seiko produced varieties of watches to offer to all walks of life. Every range offers unique selling proposition and quality matching with its Swiss rivals. Say a budget, you can find one to suit your need! I would rather buy an automatic Seiko 5 than buying the ETA or Ronda powered Swiss quartz watches. Honestly. Why? Lasting is the word. As a collector, the Seikos are affordable so we can own and appreciate the differences within varieties of models in our collection – all the time! Interestingly, you can describe each watch differently, especially on the movements empowering from behind the dial.

Unique to the Selected Few, Rare to the Avid Collectors
Besides mass producing watches to cater for the lower to upper-middle market, Seiko also produced watches for the high-end and upper-upper market. For example, the 'Credor Spring Drive' editions are respectable by the Swiss rivals and highly sought-after by many wrist watch collectors. The Credor Sonnerie (mechanical watches with multiple chimes) priced at USD200k is now acceptable to the rich and to the industry. Now, the 'Ananta Chronograph' edition launched in 2009 has developed long waiting list. Seiko only produces 200 pieces of Ananta in a year. A lot more unique surprises might come from Seiko in the future and this is much anticipated by the Swiss rivals. 'Quiet Revolution' is suitable to describe Seiko. Like what the founder proposes many decades ago.

Well, after a few years of exploring and comparing, I started collecting Seiko. Not the brand new but the vintage. I like the vintage look of the 60s dress watch - the 35mm to 36mm size strapped with leather. I guess this influence comes from my other 60s Swiss favorite - the Omega. Anyway, the 60s dress watch looks the same across brands – the Swiss and Seiko. But my 60s Seiko are mostly signature watches like the King Seiko, Skyliner, Sportsman, Sportsmatic-P, Champion, and Crown. The sporty looking 70s are also my favorite. Even until today, I still hunt for good ones as part of my collection. The chronographs and divers are the preferred one. Not to forget the Bell-Matic and few good Lord-Matic (LM) specials.

My Seiko Sportsman c1965; powered by 17 jewels hand-winding Cal6602B movement. 39 hours power reserved with +/- 4 seconds a day, not bad for a 45 years old huh!

“Anyway, you can’t keep everything with you. Unless you want to have a mini watch museum for yourself! Watches come and go and my collection changes after sometime. But, I still keep a few good conditions in my collection. Serviced and tuned. These Japanese masterpieces indiscriminately placed next to my Swiss. So, whats next dude?” – thetick-thetick

Exploring Horology Part Va

"In the 70s, you can pawn your Citizen and Seiko watches for a good cash. I heard of a successful businessman from Klang who started his business using cash obtained from pawning his Citizen watch. A pawn shop is a place we can hunt for vintage watches. What else can they trade besides personal accessories made of gold and precious gemstones?" – thetick-thetick

The Hunt of Pre-owned Watches
What is so special about Swiss watches? Honestly, I spent a lot of time browsing the Internet for knowledge, do online bidding, and visiting many websites selling pre-owned watches online. In the U.K. you can find many vintage and pre-owned sellers. Some restored vintages are also available. The price looks reasonable but the shipping and insurance charges might cost you more than the watch!

I browse only those names that come into my mind, mostly the lower-middle to middle range like Omega, Fortis, Tissot, Oris, and TAG Heuer; those brands that match my budget and brands known to many. Easy to say, below RM3k or dubbed by famous PMWF – Poor Man Watch Forum http://www.pmwf.com/, below USD1k. The more I browse, the more I know about other Swiss brands. I guess my wish list becoming longer and bigger than I can afford to. Yeah, dream of a Blancpain, Patek Philippe, Jaeger-Le-Coutre, Audemars Piguet, and a few elite brands. Impossible! But who knows? If it is going to be a new chapter in my life; with millions in hand – I will buy those brands! But, if I just have 1 million, I will not spend 50k or more just for a watch! That’s 5% from a million you earned! Mannn… don’t be silly. Okidoki, let’s just settled with line of affordable pre-owned… pacifying me.

Blancpain. Not many knew this oldest and elite Swiss brand. Have you seen any fakes?

Out of the Country, Government Casinos and Pawn Shops
Besides browsing the Internet, I do visiting watches outlets in KLCC (where my office was), Bukit Bintang, Pertama Complex, Lot 10, Amcorp Mall Flea Market, and other shops in major cities in Malaysia. At that time, in the early 2000, I work with a multinational company. I have the chance to travel to countries like Thailand, Philippines, Indonesia, Cambodia, Vietnam, India, and Singapore. As a regional manager, I have routine trip to these countries. I always make time to hunt for pre-owned watches whenever I am there albeit my busy itinerary.

In Thailand, I always go to MBK Centre (pronounced by the local ma-bung-krong) in the city of Bangkok. You can find many shops selling pre-owned watches from the lower range Swiss to top-notch brands like Patek Philippe and Blancpain. If my trip covers mid week until the next, I will spend my Sunday at Chatuchak Weekend Market. You need a lot of energy to shop there! The market is huge by hundred of stalls - the largest in Thailand. Interestingly you can find almost a dozen of weekend traders selling Swiss, Russian, and Japanese vintage wrist and pocket watches. You can bargain. But, beware of fake vintage Swiss fitted with Russian movement! In Vietnam, this is quite rampant. So be wise to buy vintage over there.

MBK Centre in Bangkok, Thailand.

Among the countries assigned to me, I spend most of my business trips to the Philippines. You won’t see much of vintage over there especially in Manila but you can find genuine and good pre-owned watches. Go to Greenhills Shopping Center near the Ortigas Avenue in Metro Manila. There is one guarded section in the first floor of the shopping center where you can find a few shops selling jewelries and pre-owned watches.

Greenhills Shopping Center in Ortigas Avenue, Manila.

Countries like Philippines and Cambodia have government-owned casinos. It is very common to find money changers and pawn shops (kedai pajak gadai laa...) nearby the casinos. Hah ha! Pawn shop… normally, the first thing a gambler cashes out when they need money to recover back their losses in the gambling den is to pawn their expensive watches and pens!!! So, never miss any pawn shops neighboring the gambling den if you have a chance. See what they have. You’ll be surprised. I was told by a watch collector from Phnom Penh in Cambodia that the pawn shops nearby the casinos normally employ watches experts to inspect and value expensive Swiss watches. How good are they? Trade a fake Rolex in any pawn shops in KL… dare to?

If you have a chance to travel to Mumbai (Bombay) in India, try to visit the Oberoy Hotel. In the hotel shop lot, you will find a watch shop. I can’t remember the name. I heard from a friend, the shop is still in business until today. You can find a lot of NOS (new old stock) of Swiss brands. I bought a genuine automatic IWC Portofino mid 90s model for only USD300! Guess what? Soon after arriving in KL, I sell it to a watch freak for USD450! But one thing I remember, the shop have a lot of 70s Oris, Tissot, and Omega. I don’t know why these watches became slow-moving brands in India. May be the Indians preferred Rolex like most of Asian consumers. Or, they go for HMT (Citizen joint venture with the local manufacturer) or the home brand - Titan!

Besides Hong Kong; Singapore is well known as "Asian Watches Hub". You can find a lot of pre-owned watches and vintage there. I visited Passion Watch in the Funan IT Mall once. They have a branch in Malaysia now, located in Bangsar Village. You can also find few shops nearby the Furama Hotel. Heaven! If you have enough cash, shop in Singapore. Pre-owned Rolex are cheaper there. Plenty of non available models in Malaysia like Submariner and Sea-Dweller on display. Quite a handfull selection of Panerai models and other top brand as well. I bought my wife’s first Rolex there - very affordable and almost 30% cheaper from KL. In Changi Airport, don’t be surprised if you find an old janitor wearing vintage Rolex GMT Master-II!!!!

Pre-owned and vintage Rolex, highly valuated by the Asians.

Indonesia. I lost count how many times I frequented Jakarta. You need more time and becoming 'capek' if you hunt for pre-owned and vintage around the most populated city of Jakarta. Hence, the 'macet' traffic in the city might exhaust your day half way. I have a millionaire (in USD not Indonesian Rupiah, okey!) friend who collects expensive Swiss and brand new Grand Seiko. He collects Patek Philippe, Blancpain, all Rolex models, Lange, Penerai, and the cheapest collection are from top-line Omega! Damned, he is bl**dy rich, but a very humble friend. We always share knowledge about watches. You know where he get all his watches? Sincere Watch and The Hour Glass in KLCC for brand new collection and pre-owned from Singapore or Hong Kong!

"Kalu bapak mahu beli jam tua, di Jakarta tidak banyak toko-toko yang menjual pak. Ini karena, jam-jam tua ini udah diekspor (export) ke luar negara. Orang Ostrali (Australia), Singapura, sama Hong Kong ambil peluang dulu deehhhh", said my good friend Bapak Han. Hmmhh… it is true. Indonesian rich people shops in Singapore. Vintage are not preference of the Indonesia rich.

But luckily, through another friend of mine, I was introduced to Bapak Agus of Kebayoran Baru. Bapak Agus (ahli arloji vintage - in english, horology expert) is the only avid vintage collector cum trader that I ever met in Indonesia. His business is to trade 'barang-barang tua' (old stuff) like watches, gemstones, lighters, and pens. Many traders from Malaysia bought vintages from him especially the Seikos. I bought many vintage divers and chronographs from him – the 6105, 6309, 7002, and 4205 divers and 6139 and 6138 chronos. Cheap! May be at that time I don’t really care about Seiko. I sell them to Seiko collectors and traders that I know in KL. In mid 2000, these vintages are not as expensive as now. The most expensive Seiko Diver 6105 sold at only Rm800. I make Rm200 per piece because I got it cheap.

"Brader, you’ll be surprised if you study the Seiko. Seiko is more interesting compared to the common Swiss brands. Have you ever heard about Grand Seiko Hi-beat 36000 vintage? Ha ha, a friend of mine sells his Rolexes and other Swiss collection just to get the Grand Seiko watch. Swiss watches ha… most of the time you can find the watch you like. Grand Seiko, sometime haa… ada duit pun belum tentu dapat." – an otai collector told me. Whats next? Exploring Seiko?