The golden era of watchmaking started in the late 50s and last towards the end of 70s. It is a period where watches becoming affordable to ordinary people and the market was flooded by numerous brands. The industry was moved by the 'one movement - multi brands' phenomenon. Movement makers like A. Schild, ETA, MST, Valjoux, Unitas, Lemania, Venus, Peseux, and Standard Time have to upsurge their production in order to meet the overwhelming demand for 'blank movement'. The era also witnessed the rejuvenation of watchmaking industry in Germany, France, UK, and the US. Not to forget India with the establishment of local watchmaker, Allwyn and HMT. Prevailing Swiss house of horology have no choice but to set their own playing field and compete among the elite few. They remain in the same league until today. The golden era also remind us of the design transition. I call it the thirty-five-forty! From standard 35mm timekeeper, watches got bigger to 40. Plenty of choices - dressage, sporty, field or tool watch. Apparently, these trends were not set alone by the European. The Japanese house of horology like Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Ricoh are the real mover. Seiko presence especially have been a mammoth challenge to the Swiss with their chronometer standard and world’s first achievement. The golden era has brought the Japanese on global stage and became household brands until now.
Seiko and Citizen mechanical chronographs; storming the market in the 70s. They are among the top-selling sports watches during the golden era. Not to forget, Seiko's world first column wheel vertical clutch chronograph invention. A design principal later adopted by the Swiss watchmakers.
Another stunner from the 70s. The Seiko World Time 6117-6400. Sportier, bigger, and colourful compared to the monotonous design from the past decades. Today, other than the Grand Seiko automatic; the company only produce the 4-hands world timer or GMT using the Kinetic movement.
The Japanese Originals
The 60s and 70s saw Orient and Ricoh join the bandwagon following the path set by Seiko and Citizen. While the non house of horology brands busy manipulating the dials to fit in blank movement for new models; the Japanese originals (Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Ricoh) have plenty to offer from varieties of movement they produced in-house. Seiko and Citizen relished the golden years exceptionally with their advancement and manage to break the Swiss hegemony through their affordable, robust yet accurate wide range of movements. Some of the Japanese movements produced during that period are in fact much better than those new ones used today.
The 60s and 70s saw Orient and Ricoh join the bandwagon following the path set by Seiko and Citizen. While the non house of horology brands busy manipulating the dials to fit in blank movement for new models; the Japanese originals (Seiko, Citizen, Orient, and Ricoh) have plenty to offer from varieties of movement they produced in-house. Seiko and Citizen relished the golden years exceptionally with their advancement and manage to break the Swiss hegemony through their affordable, robust yet accurate wide range of movements. Some of the Japanese movements produced during that period are in fact much better than those new ones used today.
Citizen calibre 7790 after cleaning and oiling. One of the movement used for the Seven Star series in the 70s. After tweaking and tuning, this 1973 timekeeper runs excellently at -5/+10s per day. Great Japanese original.
The Quartz Effect
The advent of quartz movement was a stopper to the golden era.
Traditional Swiss mechanical watchmaking was profoundly affected. Quartz
accuracy and lower production cost makes the mechanical less attentive. During the
rise of quartz in the 80s; Seiko, Citizen, and Orient have cut down the cost on
mechanicals with the introduction of new and cheaper movements. Although there are few
elders from the 7000 series, Seiko is famous for their 7S movement and Citizen is
acceptable with their Calibre 82. We don’t get hand-winding and
hacking functions from these two original base movements. It is a waning point where
Japanese mechanicals started to perceive as low quality and cheap. Look at Seiko 5
and the eagle emblem on Citizen’s dial! Cheapo watch huh! But, during the
golden era, Seiko 5 is among the top Seiko lines fitted with variety of good
movements and the eagle emblem only available on the case back of Citizen’s
chronometer. This is the utmost reason why Japanese vintage collector prefers
models from the golden years. Better movement, great old Japanese steel.
The Survivor’s Fate
Although not that many, vintage watches are still available on the
market. Those survivors from golden era have travelled thru time, places, and
owners. Vintage Japanese, Swiss, Germans, and other brands are still there for
one to acquire. Some are rare, some are all-original, and not less of them are ‘frankened’.
Due to scarce of parts, all-original models are getting lesser and hard to find
nowadays. In Malaysia, famous models and brands are valued more especially the
Swiss and rare Japanese. Ordinary Japanese are mostly undervalue albeit their
pristine condition and good movement. Famous model versus good movement!
Collectors choose famous model compared to good movement. That’s what I can
conclude, honestly. Vintage Seiko Turtle 6309 has more value compared to Lord
Matic. And, the 6105 diver is more expensive than the Presmatic. If you want to
compare, those movements used in Lord Matic and Presmatic are far more superior
compared to 6105 and 6309. Am I right? In general we love cars by the design, but not the
engine that moves them around. These are impediments to those survivors from
golden era. Undervalue and less appreciated.
The Seiko 6139-7002 mechanical chronograph. Getting an all-original is very hard these days. I call this fatso the 'silent chronograph'. You can't see the seconds hand moving unless you start recording. What a seventy!
The Return of the Kings
Continuing since the last decade, famous models from golden years return
to the market with modern essence. New movement, new material, better
finishing, and relevant. Re-issue, re-edition, and anniversary edition are
trending and they are from those signature lines of the golden era – the kings.
But only a few can meet the stumpy budget. Many are limited editions and
expensive. During the golden years the original models are not cheap either.
Buying a 100 ringgit watch during that time might cost half of ordinary man’s take-home
pay. True kings are not cheap.
The Champion of the Kings. This Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 VFA returns on its 20th anniversary. Honoured in platinum, this king is a limited edition luxury and very expensive. (source: grandseiko.com)
My Preference
All the while
I prioritize my budget for new release; brand new or pre-owned. But not
anymore. After many years of collecting, I value the old Japanese steel more
than the new lines in collection. I have my regret by letting go some of them.
Those still in possession have thought me a valuable lesson. Keep vintage with good
movement - let go those contemporary modern pieces! Vintage hunting; cheap or
expensive, I always look for good dial-set condition and importantly the movement
inside. The all-original if possible! Other than the in-house, many Swiss vintage are fitted with ETA, AS, or the cheaper no jewels movement.
I had enough of them. Japanese vintages are better because they use in-house movement and plenty of choices to experience with.
"I still remember the day I bought my first
vintage Seiko Lord Matic. The seller gave me the option to pay a little bit extra for a vintage Omega Constellation. Both are using in-house calibres but I choose the Lord Matic. The seller (an old avid watch
collector) asked me why I choose the Seiko and not the Omega. My answer, the Lord
Matic Calibre 5606A is far more superior compared to the Omega Calibre 1021.
The seller smile at me and said that I made the right choice! Now... which one? Vintage Rolex
6694 or vintage Grand Seiko? For me, I don’t mind spending the same amount for
6694 just to get the vintage GS. No second thought about it. Again, why? GS
uses far more superior movement compared to the nothing to shout about 6694
movement. For me the 6694 is more of a brand value preserving the antiques of Rolex. The GS is a true value. I guess the wonders of the Japanese old steel from golden era is fading
and soon will be forgotten. Less appreciated because they are not Swiss.” – thetick-thetick2020
